Marguet’s NV Brut Reserve is utterly fascinating in its pungent and savory evocations of bruised apple skin and lemon rind; oyster liquor and kelp, toasted nuts and blond tobacco; sourdough yeasts and singed buckwheat batter. There are white peach and apple to lend a juicy, fruity matrix to the mix on a palate at once creamy and vivacious. This finishes with subtle tartness, persistent pungency, pleasantly sour invigoration, and mouthwatering salinity. It will no doubt be too outrageously out of the mainstream for many wine lovers, but I highly recommend putting some of it to use at your table over the next couple of years.
91 Points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: (a 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, all from Ambonnay, Bouzy and Mailly; L0905): Bright yellow. Ripe pear and nectarine aromas are lifted and sharpened by a note of Meyer lemon. Smoky and focused on the palate, offering concentrated, refreshingly bitter pear skin and citrus pith flavors that become fleshier with aeration. Finishes on a gently smoky note, with very good clarity and persistence and a hint of iodine.
18/20 Jancis Robinson (2010 vintage)