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Champagne Marguet Rose Grand Cru

$105.00
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The Marguet entry in Tom Stevenson's  Christie's World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine is fascinating on the subject of this house. There used to be both a négociant business Marguet-Bonnerave and Marguet Père et Fils but a family reconciliation leaves us only with the latter, which has been run biodynamically and extremely energetically by Benoît Bonnerave since 2009. He has 10 ha left after selling 'a large chunk of land to Krug in 2011'. He is now claiming 'no added sulphur' and experimentation clearly runs in the genes. In 1883, before the arrival of phylloxera, Émile Marguet (a Marguet married a Bonnerave later) grafted his vines on to American rootstocks and was thoroughly ridiculed as a result. He was bankrupted and had to sell to Henriot before beginning all over again. Thank heavens he did.

Benoit Marguet now only works with Grand Cru fruit for this superlative rosé. The vines are located in Bouzy and his own village of Ambonnay (from selected parcels like Le Parc, Les Saints Remys and Les Crayeres). An innovative technical juxtaposition of saignée (bleeding the juice from the red grapes) and assemblage ( addition of still red wine), pioneered by Benoit, has yielded a wine which combines structure and elegance. Made from 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir, the wine has an attractive salmon to onion skin colour, a delicate mousse and a palate which marries summer fruits, gentle spice, peach and hints of roasted nuts.

 

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